Editorial: Organic Cotton: Small But Growing

3 pages, published in Issue 130, July-August 2007   Report price: Euro 275.00; US$ 365.00

H&M is just one of an increasing number of major retailers to declare a commitment to the use of organic cotton (see page 17). Others include Marks & Spencer and Wal-Mart.

In order to be classified as “organic”, a crop must be cultivated in soil whose fertility is maintained and replenished without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilisers. Furthermore, the soil needs to have been kept free from such substances for at least three years.

At a time of growing concern about the environment, declaring “a commitment to organic cotton” is good for business. Consumers who are concerned about the chemicals used in the production of the clothes they buy can feel content that, by shopping at H&M, they are not only obtaining “fast fashion” items (see page 19) at low prices but also helping to save the environment.

In fact, the hype far exceeds the reality. It is impossible for the world’s major retailers to sell clothes made from organic cotton en masse because the output of organic cotton is minuscule. So, for the time being at least, claims by retailers that they are committed to using organic cotton are little more than publicity-seeking gestures.

Things are changing, however. According to a report2 from USA- based Organic Exchange, of which H&M is a member, the amount of organic cotton produced globally is set to soar—albeit from an extremely low base.

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